To complement Carlene’s column on stuffed quail last week, we follow up with another favorite wild game recipe of mine — braised fillet of venison. The general deer season in Missouri opens on Nov. 14 ...

Heat the oil in a heavy pan and sweat the vegetables. Add wine, vinegar and remaining ingredients. Simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Cool thoroughly and pour over the venison. Soak for several hours.

Before moving to Minnesota, I volunteered as a cook at a local men’s shelter in the Pacific Northwest, where game wardens would deliver any recoverable poached wild game or salvageable road kill. Upon ...